Route for Western Districts Wanderer 1000
As far as climbing goes bikely indicates that an elevation gain of about 3800 metres is required to be negotiated in this event. The greatest challenges are the Horden Vale and Laver’s Hill climbs in the Otway National Park which are tackled both on the outgoing and return leg of the ride. The Dunkeld to Ararat leg through the Grampians provides a few extra climbing memories, one is just out of Dunkeld on the way to Hall’s Gap and Carroll’s cutting just before Ararat.
Ride Profile
Peter Donnan was the organiser of this ride and his detailed planning was to show through in countless aspects of this ride. From the registration process to the cue sheets, sleeping arrangements to food selection, checkpoint determination, volunteer coordination and logistics, everything was executed to precision.
32 riders registered for the ride and several interstaters had made the trip to Victoria to participate. A few late withdrawals meant that 29 starters eventually headed off on the Saturday morning. Peter having successfully completed it unsupported and solo the week before. Most left at 7am but a few had chosen an 8am start option. Overcast conditions made switching on taillights advisable and with wet weather forecast along with unfavourable winds I think most riders knew the first day in the saddle was not going to be a cakewalk.
Matthew Rawnsley and John Osborne-Rigby moved away quickly not to be seen for the rest of the ride and Oliver Portway who started at 8am was to pass us at Laver’s Hill. Being a mid-pack rider I was happy to eventually settle into a growing bunch of around 10 riders as we travelled down the Surf Coast Highway to Torquay. Once on the Great Ocean Road the undulations seemed to break up things a little but by the time we arrived at Grandma Shield’s bakery in Lorne there were many riders making the most of the first checkpoint. I didn’t want to waste too much time early in the ride as I knew that as the mind and body tires using time efficiently at controls becomes increasingly difficult so I set off alone now looking to find my own rhythm. I next arrived at Apollo Bay and pulled into a servo to top up my fluids for the climbing on the way to Laver’s Hill. As I was heading out of town I checked my rack bag and realised that I had left one of the pockets unzipped. I pulled up on the edge of the road and oh sh…! The small purse I was carrying my money in was missing. Now I had methodically packed tools, zip ties and the like in one side pocket and my brevet card, route notes and money in the other side pocket of my bag. The look of horror and panic on my face, as I frantically searched through every nook and cranny tossing arm and leg warmers, raincoats and undervests aside, must have been something because a kind lady jogger had stopped and was asking me was I alright? “Just lost some money” I said. “Oh is that all?” she said. “I thought you must have broken your bike” she said as she jogged away. Fortunately I had placed my money in the wrong pocket at the last stop and it had not fallen out as I had feared at all.
Drama averted I got back on the bike more determined than ever to approach the first significant climb of the ride with a steady and conservative effort. During this period I was passed by 3 or 4 riders but felt very comfortable with my pace and condition. I also stopped a few times to don and remove arm warmers and rain gear as some very cold showers blew across the mountain range. Yatzie’s Café at Laver’s Hill was the next refuelling stop and there it was very cold and windswept. Stephen Rowlands who had apparently not fully recovered from some illness during the week was feeling the cold very badly as we sat down to coffee and eats and he was subsequently to pull out of the ride at the next checkpoint. Downhill from Laver’s to Port Campbell should have been enjoyable but it turned in to quite a slog as the wind provided extra resistance to slow my progress as I was again pedalling alone. I also had an incident while descending where in my caution not to lean too much or brake too hard in the wet I managed to run off the edge of the road at about 50kph into a pile of leaf litter and a drain grating which I was fortunately able to recover from without falling. I think it took about half an hour for the adrenalin to dissipate from my system and for me to feel fine again.
The volunteers at the Port Campbell checkpoint provided great support looking after all the needs of the riders. I spent a little extra time than I had planned there as I was hoping a number of riders would leave together and we would be able share the workload a bit. This is how it turned out as about 8 riders headed off into the blackness of our first night. The group pretty much held together for a lot of the way to Warrnambool as more cold wind and rain buffeted us. Hans Dusink, Rus Hamilton, Frank Preyer and Tim Taylor all did a lot of work at the front. In Allansford we asked a patron standing outside the pub for directions to confirm we were still on course. His directions were dubious and we decided that we were still on track which it turned out we were. The checkpoint at the APCO servo was reached sometime after 10pm. It was very cold and I was getting colder as I waited for the others to be ready to depart. We still had 100k to go before we could get to bed.
The group stopped a few times early is this leg, which now largely headed in a northerly direction, for a break or two and it seemed that perhaps a few were feeling the pinch a little and slowing. I was keen to forge on so I could get to Dunkeld to get some sleep as it had so far been a relatively tough day in the saddle. I moved away and eventually Mick Creati and Stephen Atkins followed and caught up to me before they moved on past. Penshurst lies at the midway mark of this leg and I stopped very briefly under the street light outside the pub to eat some lovely cake that Sandy had provided at the Warrnambool stop. On this leg Martin Haynes also offered some food and coffee at the road side but I declined fearing if I stopped in the cold in the middle of nowhere I may not get started again. The last 20k to Dunkeld had me struggling to stay awake as a fog tiredness descended on me and micro-sleeps started to cause me some concern. It was a relief to reach the Glenelg Highway knowing there was only 4k to go. I arrived at the Dunkeld checkpoint at 4am to happy faces, food, a shower and a bed. After a fantastic 2 hours sleep it was time to get up for another day. Unfortunately a number of riders, Alan Baker, Hans Dusink, Stephen Watson, Peter Searle and Henry DeMan had now decided not to continue due to various issues.
It was a cold and foggy start on the ride to Hamilton with half of it spent chatting to Bec Morton before 4 others caught us and I moved off with them. A quick turnaround at the servo control and I was feeling really good now and I made the most of the tailwind and downhills as I arrived back around the same time as Paul Cribb and Phillip Jang at Dunkeld for lunch. Rob Roseby was unwell and later withdrew here. Sitting in the sunshine eating toasted sandwiches and enjoying a laugh with Peter, volunteers and fellow riders was really enjoyable. The next leg had some fantastic scenery as I travelled along the valley road in the heart of the Grampians passing Mt William and Lake Bellfield before arriving at Hall’s Gap to what is a very popular bakery. The next leg was probably the most difficult for me as I struggled to find any rhythm on the road to Moyston and suffered a real flat spot before an energy bar perked me up. Caroll’s cutting about 10k before Ararat required my lowest gear and plenty of muscle to negotiate but soon after the downhill into town proved to be quite a hoot! The checkpoint was a roadhouse 5k to the east on the Western Highway but with a good width emergency lane traffic was not a problem. One of the riders pulling in while I was here was Dave Harrington. He was being troubled by foot problems but was travelling well otherwise.
Darkness fell on the road between Ararat and Glenthompson and the evening highlight was the bright glow of paddocks of stubble being burned by farmers. The night became colder as a result of the clear sky but this was somewhat offset but the light being shed by a relatively fullish moon. Howard Dove and Leigh Paterson rocketed past me along this road and it only took me a millisecond to decide not to jump on. It was good to reach Glenthompson and turn toward Dunkeld with the knowledge that I would be greeted by happy helpers with lot’s of hot food and I would be in a warm bed soon after. In fact the three servings of lasagne and the sticky date pudding were absolutely first class.
I resolved to get up the next morning at 2am in an effort to be on the road by 3am. Porridge, baked beans and toast before leaving had me confident that my calorific intake on this ride was serving me very well indeed. The road to Penshurst and on to Warrnambool was quiet and the 100k ride for me was uneventful as I proceeded to just turn my legs over, easily and steadily. The Warrnambool stop was to top up drink bottles and consume two 4’n20’s in short order. I was preparing to leave as Peter Donnan arrived for a coffee on his drive back to the later checkpoints. He was the only familiar face I was to see until my arrival at the Port Campbell checkpoint at lunchtime. On my arrival there I was greeted by an eager group of vollies all wanting to provide whatever I required. Soup followed by tinned fruit was the ideal food.
I seemed to have more time to enjoy the natural beauty on the return ride along the Great Ocean Road admiring the world renowned sandstone formations and the dramatic cliff faces. The climb up to Laver’s Hill was not too bad and stopping for 20 minutes at the café out of the cold air for a strong coffee and salad roll was refreshing. As I was preparing to leave Leigh Paterson, David Eales and Simon Maddison arrived and they were all soon to pass me along the road to Apollo Bay. The Horden Vale climb in this direction was probably the most severe of the entire ride but I was happy that I was negotiating it much better than I had in the 2008 GSR 600. The fast sweep down into Apollo Bay, a quick stop to put on reflective gear and turn on lights and I was starting to feel that completing a 1000k ride was possible as I headed to the Wye River control. Ron and Chris were among happy faces that greeted me and I was soon consuming sausage rolls, stew and boiled potato and desert.
I left the control around 7pm with the aim to finish before midnight. Muscular fatigue was now starting to slow me down, understandable after 940k, and I reverted to coasting down hills and climbing most hills in much lower gears than I would normally. I stopped in Torquay to ring my wife Carol and advised her that the last 20k would take me at least an hour. It was with great satisfaction I completed my first 1000k ride pulling in to the finish at the 24 Café at 11:36pm. It was great to relax and have the big bowl of chips with lashings of salt that I had been craving.
My finish at the 24 Café at 11:36pm
Then off home for a good sleep before returning to the café to welcome in the final riders on Tuesday morning and celebrate their achievements. Peter Horsley, Martin Pearson and Pat Lehane all rode well. Allan Dickson put in a great ride after looking out to it at Dunkeld and Stephen Chambers was pleased to receive the lantern rouge.
Allan Dickson put in a great ride
Lanterne Rouge Stephen Chambers with ride organiser Peter Donnan
All in all, a brilliant ride organised magnificently by Peter Donnan and supported by a fantastic group of vollies. Congratulations to everyone involved.
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